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Excerpt from Food & Wine,
January 1996
by Donald Downes
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PHOENIX
RIDING HIGH
A Critic's Roundup of the
Hot New Places
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TARBELL'S
THE PROPRIETOR AND CHEF: Owner Mark Tarbell* most recently supervised the restaurants at The Boulders resort in nearby Carefree. Chef Mark Bloom** followed Tarbell from The Boulders.
THE LOOK: A simple yet sophisticated neighborhood café with clean lines and copper accents. |
DON'T MISS: To
start, the cold smoked rock shrimp with plum tomato relish and
focaccia or the oak-fired soft-shell crabs with jicama slaw. For
the main course, barbecued glazed salmon served with greens on a
crispy
potato cake or the pepper steak with au gratin potatoes and
creamed spinach. A side of cream biscuits is a must.
FAVORITE DESSERT: Cheesecake with sour cream and
mascarpone.
WINE LIST PICK: 1993 Etude Pinot Noir ($44).
THE DETAILS: 3213 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix;
602-955-8100. Only dinner served. Entrees $13.95 to $24.50.
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*Chef/Proprietor Mark Tarbell has branched out: His
second eatery, Barmouche (Bar-Moosh), is located at 3131 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, Arizona, 602-956-6900.
**Chef Mark Bloom opened his own restaurant in central Phoenix called Convivo, 7000 N.16th St., Phoenix, Arizona, 602-997-7676. Bloom and his wife, Pat,
sold the successful eatery to Jeffrey Beeson, former chef de cuisine of Different Pointe of View, Pointe Hilton Tapatio Resort, Phoenix. |
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